Blog Layout

How do you define good lume?


For us its is based on 3 main characteristics of the luminous effect:


  1. Brightness: the lume should have a nice "glow in the dark" effect
  2. Longevity: the lume is not effective if the glowing effect lasts for only few minutes.
  3. Clear glow: One of the most difficult tasks was to make the lume glowing homogenously, it means there are no "shadows" visible in the night glow or color differences between dial, hands and bezel of the emission color.

On this sample you can see that the lume on the logo is of a different shade of green and the indices are a bit different from the dial. You can also see some dark spots (we call them shadows) on the lume on the bezel, logo and dial. We have checked the lume application with RC Tritec AG. 


The verdict: We supplied the lume pigments for the samples in sufficient quantities to produce enough samples, yet our old supplier decided to mix our pigments with some other lume powder. All this was noticeable by the manufacturer of SLN (Swiss Super-LumiNova®). 


Then somehow our trust into the factories in China has reached a point, we did not feel comfortable anymore. After other tests from different factories (about 5-6 "famous" dial factories for other Microbrands) and more negative results, it was not a hard decision anymore. 


Now our dials and hands are produced with trusted partners.


How to spot "fake" Swiss Lume


I think this topic gets too less attention, probably many brand owners know it or they probably don't know, but there is a lot of cheating going on in terms of lume. Many factories promise Swiss Super-LumiNova®, but in fact using cheap products Made in China, which costs only a fraction of the real deal.


Like this they optimize their profits.

1kg of Swiss Super-LumiNova® C3 Grade A cost roughly about USD 19'000.00 meanwhile you can find the Chinese "copy" for roughly 53 USD per 1 kg.


We know it because we bought it on local markets in China out of curiosity.

At this point being said: The lume quality of the Chinese suppliers is actually not bad, they can have a pretty decent brightness and longevity of up to 8 hours. But it is not the Swiss Super-LumiNova®, if it was sold as Chinese Lume, I think there is no problem with that. But it is sold as Swiss product by the manufacturer, I think this is not fair.


Now, how do I spot it?


This is actually very hard to find out. First of all you need to know how the powders look like on day time for the 3 major pigments it is:

C3: very light green appearance

C1: white appeareance

BGW-9: white appearance


Then the night glow (so called emission color):

C3: green*

C1: green*

BGW-9: blue*


*in default, there are other emission colors available (Purple, Orange, Ultramarine, Pink, White, Yellow)


Tipp: For example if your BGW-9 lume on the watch is a bit greenish on day time, it could be an indicator that the lume may not be Swiss Super-LumiNova®. The "day" colors can vary on how the lume is applied and with what lacquer it is combined.


But there is no guarantee for this. For example the next photo:

The lume of the bezel insert on this photo is not BGW-9. We did a sample with a partner in China to see the new design of our ceramic inserts. Back in Switzerland we tested the inserts, and it was negative, not Swiss Super-LumiNova®. Eventho the day color was white, and the night glow was blue. 


The only "safe" way to tell in this example is the testing by RC Tritec AG, the producer of the Swiss Super-LumiNova®. They can detect their lume pigments with Swiss precision.


If you want to be 100% sure, this is the only way and we decided to do it. Our latest PD samples were all confirmed on Swiss Super-LumiNova®.


So far about that topic, now let's change to something surprisingly.

How long does it last?


This is a question we wanted to answer ourselves too. So we sent our sample with BGW9 to RC Tritec AG and let them test the watch according to ISO 17514 standards. This test is performed for all watch or glowing parts the same way and with same conditions.


The result was mindblowing for us. More than 22 hours the lume was noticable on our watch. According to the feedback, we did a good design of our lume depots and applied enough Swiss Super-LumiNova® to reach such levels.


Our results:





Our watch in the test lab:

  • Slide title

    Write your caption here
    Button
  • Slide title

    Write your caption here
    Button
  • Slide title

    Write your caption here
    Button
  • Slide title

    Write your caption here
    Button


With this test report we confirmed our points 1 and 2 for perfect lume à la WICKED WATCH CO.

How about the third point? A clear and unified glow.



Let's let the photos speak for themselves: NO PHOTOSHOP!

to be continued...



I hope this arcticle was usefull for you. If you have any questions send me an E-Mail or Contact us on Facebook.

Thank you very much.


Pascal

By Pascal Isenegger 15 Apr, 2024
Comparison between a stamped buckle and a CNC machined one
By Pascal Isenegger 24 Oct, 2023
The future of case and bracelet scratch protection?
By Pascal Isenegger 18 Aug, 2023
Titanium case backs
29 Dec, 2022
In 2023 we are having some watch releases planned and one of them are the V1.2 of the bronze PEARL DIVER. We have finished almost all dial we made with LUMICAST and still have some cases left, this lead us to do some new excited stuff for our customers!
By Pascal Isenegger 07 Dec, 2022
A story we hate to share but it is the truth
11 Aug, 2022
Early rendering stage of an upcoming project we are working on.  The renders are not final. There will be some changes like the bezel insert engraving style, hands. Additional dials. 41 mm diameter, 46 mm lug to lug, 12.50 mm height, powered by Sellita Elab Grade SW200-1 or Soprod Newton (could not decide yet). Lugs are 20 mm. Stainless Steel 316L with experimental hardening which gives the steel a hardness of 1800-3000 HV, we will provide a test report to proof our claims, just like with the lume, we like to verify what we promise and not just blind-trust our suppliers! Genuine Swiss Made Lumicast indices and chapter ring with highest possbile Grade of lume and some even have a lumicast dial (in the works). Hands are polished with middle chamfer. Box sapphire or maybe double domed (not decided yet). Exhibition case back. Parts are made in Switzerland and China with final assembly and QC in Switzerland with our watchmaker in La Chaux-de-Fonds. We ship from our Swiss Office worldwide. This way we can offer it at an affordable price. we are aiming at $649 including shipping. Each color will be limited to 50 pieces. How do you like it? The project is not named yet ^^
09 Jul, 2022
The first new model to be launched in 2022 is the timascus Basilea collection.
By Pascal Isenegger 04 May, 2022
100% SWISS MADE SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL
By Pascal Isenegger 23 Apr, 2022
As we almost finished our pre order phase (only few pieces are left to ship) we are taking photos of our watches. It takes lots of time to set up the right lights, focus etc.
By Pascal Isenegger 24 May, 2021
Introducing the new release of WICKED WATCH, the steel version of our PEARL DIVER.
More Posts
Share by: